Stirling

I lived in Stirling for 7 years and I think it is a lovely small city to visit. I would regularly go for walk up around the castle to enjoy the panoramic views. it certainly merits a visit for a day, to see the castle and the Wallace Monument. It is also ideal as a base for a touring holiday as you can reach Glasgow, Edinburgh and Perth in under a hour, either by car or rail. Other day trips include the Trossachs, St Andrews and Loch Lomond.

Stirling has been described as the huge brooch, clasping the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland together. This is a fairly accurate description as it is situated near the geographical centre of Scotland.

Stirling offers the visitor the opportunity to experience a unique blend of well-preserved history and culture within an area of outstanding natural beauty. Stirling started life as a town in the 1120s when it was granted a royal charter, and since then it has been at the heart of Scottish history.

William Wallace, as portrayed by Mel Gibson in the film Braveheart, won the battle of Stirling Bridge against the English in 1297. That bridge was a timber structure, which collapsed under the weight of the crossing English forces. However the current stone bridge, a few hundred yards up stream, dates from the 15th century. Although it is one of the best examples of a bridge from that era, it is in everyday use as a pedestrian river crossing. The Wallace Monument, erected in honour of William Wallace, was not built until Victorian times. Climb the 246 curvaceous stone steps to admire the wonderful view from the top. You can muse at the 700-year-old two-handed broadsword used by Wallace, all of 66 inches in length. Envisage wielding it and bringing its full might down on your enemy.

The Battle of Bannockburn, the famous victory of Scots over English in 1314, took place in nearby Bannockburn. The English king, Edward the 2nd, had amassed an army of 40,000 to crush the troublesome Scots. Incredibly Sir Robert The Bruce, the Scottish leader, triumphed with a force of 13,000 due to careful planning and tactics, and exploitation of the boggy ground. The battlefield is now under the care of the National Trust. You can wander round the battleground and imaging the battle cries and swirling swords. Many of the Scots would form a schiltron, a defensive circular formation with spears slanted outwards at an oblique angle. As the English cavalry advanced, the Scottish pikes killed many of the horses and knights.

Stirling Castle, perched on volcanic rock rising 250m from the surrounding valley, is the region’s most visible landmark. The castle guards the lowest crossing point of the River Forth as it meanders through the valley. In its long and bloody history Stirling Castle has been attacked or besieged 16 times. The majority of the castle buildings date from 1496 to 1583. Several Scottish kinds and queens have been baptised, crowned or died within or near the castle. One of the best known, Mary Queen of Scots, was crowned there in 1543, when still an infant. The ghost of “The Green Lady”, a royal attendant who saved Mary’s life when the draperies on her bed had caught fire, is said to haunt the castle. Her appearance is thought to herald a disaster.

The castle sits at the Top of the Town. Just down the hill stands the Church of the Holy Rude, and in its graveyard stand gravestones dating from 1579. The Star Pyramid commemorates all those who were martyred seeking religious freedom. A local eccentric is said to be interned inside the pyramid, seated at a feasting table.

Also part of the old town is Broad Street, the hub of medieval civic life. Here stands the Mercat Cross, a prominent feature of the burgh where important and local announcements are made. The unicorn at the top of the present cross is part of the original structure. The Old Tolbooth, a courthouse, council meeting place, armoury and prison constituting the administrative heart of the old town, stood in Broad Street. The current Tolbooth replaced it in 1702, designed by the famous Scottish architect Sir William Booth. The tower with its pavilion roof is a characteristic architectural feature of Scottish civic building of the period. The Tolbooth has recently been renovated and is now a centre for arts and entertainment.

The old town wall is still very much in evidence and is the best surviving example in Scotland. A circular walk, named the Back Walk, takes you up round the wall, up to the Castle, and down to Holy Rude and Broad Street. By foot, you can go at your own pace and soak up the history.

However, whilst proud of its past, Stirling can also offer the modern attractions. The Thistle Shopping Centre, an indoor shopping centre with a full array of stores, stands near to the Old Arcade, a Victorian arcade built in 1881-82 containing small specialist shops.

Stirling became a city in 2002 as part of the celebrations to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. There are plans for a new conference centre, cinema and shops on the bank of the Forth.

Where to eat

The River House restaurant, tel 01786 465577, sits by a small lake on the outskirts of Stirling. I have eaten here serveral times and really enjoyed the food and the setting of the restaurant. They offer a fixed price lunch and early evening dinner.

Mr Singh's Indian Brasserie, 16 - 18 Barnton Street, tel 01786 464019 is my favourite Indian restautant. The buffets are fantastic.

You can read the full guide to Stirling with photos and accommodation options at http://www.europealacarte.co.uk/Scotland/stirling/index.html.

About the Author: Karen Bryan is a UK based independent travel consultant and writer. In her website, Europe a la Carte. http:http://www.europealacarte.co.uk, she promotes less well known destinations in Europe. Karen believes that if you want to see more of the real Europe, you should venture, even slightly off the well worn tourist track.